The Rolex Submariner 1990

The Rolex Submariner, a name synonymous with dive watches, has been a mainstay in the world of horology since its inception in 1953. The 1990 model, while seemingly a continuation of the iconic design, represents a significant step in the evolution of the Submariner. This model marks a transition point, incorporating advancements in materials, design, and functionality that would influence the future of the line.

The Rolex Submariner: A Legacy of Dive Watch Excellence

The Rolex Submariner’s history is intertwined with the development of dive watches. It was one of the first watches designed specifically for underwater use, and its enduring popularity has cemented its position as a symbol of both luxury and functionality. The Submariner’s early models were revolutionary, introducing features like the rotating bezel, a crucial tool for divers to track their dive time, and the Oyster case, renowned for its water resistance.

The Evolution of the Submariner Design

The Submariner’s design has evolved over the decades, reflecting advancements in watchmaking and the changing demands of divers. Early models featured a simpler design with a smaller case size and a less prominent bezel. Over time, the Submariner underwent a series of refinements, including the introduction of larger case sizes, updated bezels, and the use of more robust materials.

The 1990 Submariner: A New Chapter

The 1990 Submariner represents a significant departure from its predecessors, incorporating several notable features and innovations. This model marked the introduction of the Triplock winding crown, a triple-sealed system that enhanced water resistance to 300 meters (1,000 feet). The 1990 Submariner also featured a larger, more robust case, a redesigned bezel with larger numerals, and a sapphire crystal, renowned for its scratch resistance. These changes solidified the Submariner’s reputation as a reliable and durable dive watch.

Design and Features of the Rolex Submariner 1990

The Rolex Submariner 1990, a classic timepiece, boasts a distinctive design that reflects its enduring legacy. Its robust construction, refined features, and unparalleled functionality solidify its status as a coveted dive watch.

Case Size and Materials

The 1990 Submariner features a 40mm stainless steel case, a size that has become synonymous with the model. This size offers a comfortable fit on most wrists while maintaining the watch’s substantial presence. The case is meticulously crafted from 904L stainless steel, an exceptionally corrosion-resistant alloy that Rolex uses exclusively for its watches. This material is known for its exceptional durability, ensuring the watch can withstand the rigors of diving and everyday wear.

Bezel

The 1990 Submariner’s unidirectional rotating bezel is a crucial element for diving. Its functionality is paramount for safe and accurate timing during underwater excursions. The bezel’s 120-click mechanism allows divers to precisely track their dive time. The bezel’s graduated markings, etched in black against a polished surface, provide clear visibility even in low-light conditions.

Dial and Hands

The 1990 Submariner’s dial is a hallmark of its design. The black dial, with its luminous hour markers and hands, offers excellent legibility, essential for underwater visibility. The dial features the iconic Rolex crown logo at 12 o’clock, the signature “Submariner” inscription at 6 o’clock, and the “Rolex Oyster Perpetual” inscription at 3 o’clock. The hands are crafted from polished steel and filled with luminescent material, ensuring clear visibility in darkness.

Movement

The 1990 Submariner is powered by the Rolex Caliber 3000, a robust and reliable automatic movement. This movement is known for its precision, accuracy, and durability. It features a 48-hour power reserve, ensuring the watch remains operational even after prolonged periods without being worn. The Caliber 3000 incorporates a self-winding mechanism, which utilizes the wearer’s natural wrist movements to keep the watch wound. The movement is also equipped with a date display at 3 o’clock, a practical feature for everyday use.

The Rolex Submariner 1990

The Rolex Submariner 1990 was a pivotal year for the iconic dive watch, marking the transition from the classic 5513 to the new 14060. While the 1990 Submariner primarily featured the 14060 model, there were a few notable variations and special editions produced during this year, each with its unique characteristics and appeal.

Variations and Special Editions

The 1990 Submariner saw several variations and special editions that catered to different tastes and preferences. These variations often featured unique dial configurations, materials, and features that set them apart from the standard 14060 model.

  • Rolex Submariner 14060M: This model, introduced in 1990, was the standard Submariner for the year and featured a black dial, a black bezel, and a date window at the 3 o’clock position. The “M” in the reference number signifies the presence of a Maxi dial, which featured larger hour markers and hands for enhanced readability.
  • Rolex Submariner 14060M with a “T” Serial Number: Some 14060M models produced in 1990 featured a “T” serial number. This serial number range indicates that these watches were produced in the early part of 1990, making them particularly sought after by collectors.
  • Rolex Submariner 16610: This model, introduced in 1989, continued to be produced in 1990. The 16610 featured a date window at the 3 o’clock position and a larger case size than the 14060. It was available with a black dial and a black bezel, or a black dial and a blue bezel.
  • Rolex Submariner 16610 with a “T” Serial Number: Similar to the 14060M, some 16610 models produced in 1990 featured a “T” serial number, signifying their early production date.
  • Rolex Submariner 16610 “Red”: A rare and highly sought-after variation of the 16610, this model featured a red “SUBMARINER” text on the dial, instead of the usual white text. The “Red” Submariner was only produced for a short period, making it a highly collectible piece.
  • Rolex Submariner 16610 “Flat 4”: This variation featured a unique “flat 4” date window, where the 4 on the date wheel was not raised like other date windows. This feature is considered a collector’s item and adds significant value to the watch.
  • Rolex Submariner 16610 “Coke”: This model, featuring a black dial and a red and blue bezel, is also known as the “Pepsi” Submariner. It was produced in limited numbers and is considered a highly desirable collector’s piece.

The Rolex Submariner 1990: Collecting and Value

The Rolex Submariner 1990, a classic timepiece, has become a coveted collectible, with its value appreciating steadily over the years. Its desirability stems from its iconic design, robust build, and historical significance. Several factors contribute to the value of a Rolex Submariner 1990, making it an attractive investment for watch enthusiasts and collectors alike.

Factors Influencing the Value of a Rolex Submariner 1990

The value of a Rolex Submariner 1990 is influenced by several factors, including its condition, provenance, and rarity. These factors play a crucial role in determining a Submariner’s market value, making it essential for collectors to understand their significance.

Condition

The condition of a Rolex Submariner 1990 is a primary factor in determining its value. A watch in excellent condition, with minimal signs of wear, will command a higher price than one that shows significant wear and tear.

  • Case and Bezel: The case and bezel should be free of scratches, dents, and other imperfections. A polished case can also negatively impact the value.
  • Dial and Hands: The dial should be free of blemishes, and the hands should be in good condition, with no signs of corrosion or damage. Original dials are highly sought after by collectors.
  • Crystal: The crystal should be scratch-free and free of any cracks or chips.
  • Movement: The movement should be in good working order, with no signs of wear or damage. A properly functioning movement is essential for a watch’s value.
  • Bracelet: The bracelet should be in good condition, with no stretched links or missing parts. Original Rolex bracelets are highly sought after by collectors.

Provenance

Provenance refers to the history of a watch and its previous owners. A Rolex Submariner 1990 with a well-documented history, especially if it belonged to a notable individual, can significantly increase its value.

  • Original Papers and Box: The presence of original papers, such as the warranty card and instruction booklet, adds value to a watch. The original box, if available, further enhances its desirability.
  • Service History: A documented service history from an authorized Rolex dealer can increase a watch’s value. It indicates that the watch has been properly maintained and cared for.
  • Notable Ownership: A watch that has been owned by a famous person or has a connection to a significant historical event can command a premium price.

Rarity

Rarity is a significant factor in determining the value of a Rolex Submariner 1990. Certain models, particularly those produced in limited quantities or with unique features, are highly sought after by collectors and can fetch premium prices.

  • Production Numbers: Some Rolex Submariner 1990 models were produced in limited quantities, making them rarer and more valuable. The production numbers for a particular model can be found in reference books or online databases.
  • Unique Features: A Rolex Submariner 1990 with unique features, such as a rare dial color or a special edition designation, can command a higher price than a standard model.
  • Dial Variations: Slight variations in dial details, such as the font used for the indices or the presence of a “Swiss Made” inscription, can influence a watch’s value.

The Current Collector’s Market for Rolex Submariner 1990 Models

The collector’s market for Rolex Submariner 1990 models is strong and continues to grow. These watches are highly sought after by collectors and investors alike, and prices have been steadily increasing in recent years. The popularity of vintage Rolex watches, combined with the increasing demand for luxury timepieces, has fueled the market for these models. Collectors are drawn to the timeless design, robust build, and historical significance of the Rolex Submariner 1990. As a result, these watches are considered a valuable investment, with the potential for continued appreciation in value over time.

The Rolex Submariner 1990: Legacy and Influence

The Rolex Submariner 1990, with its iconic design and robust construction, cemented its place as a legendary timepiece. It not only set a standard for dive watches but also left an enduring mark on the watch industry, shaping the landscape of luxury timepieces for generations to come.

The Rolex Submariner 1990’s Influence on Dive Watches

The Rolex Submariner 1990’s influence on subsequent generations of dive watches is undeniable. Its design elements, such as the unidirectional rotating bezel, the robust Oyster case, and the Triplock crown, became the industry standard for dive watches.

  • The unidirectional bezel, a feature that prevented accidental changes to the dive timer, became a staple in dive watch design, ensuring accurate timing during underwater excursions.
  • The Oyster case, with its water-resistant construction, provided superior protection against the elements, making it a reliable choice for divers and adventurers.
  • The Triplock crown, a triple-locking system, further enhanced the water resistance of the watch, ensuring its performance under extreme conditions.

The Enduring Appeal of the Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner 1990, along with its predecessors and successors, continues to hold a special place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts. Its enduring appeal can be attributed to several factors:

  • Timeless Design: The Submariner’s classic design, with its black ceramic bezel, distinctive hands, and polished case, has remained remarkably consistent over the years, ensuring its enduring appeal across generations.
  • Exceptional Craftsmanship: Rolex’s commitment to precision engineering and meticulous craftsmanship has resulted in watches that are both durable and aesthetically pleasing. The Submariner’s robust construction and meticulous details reflect this dedication.
  • Status Symbol: The Rolex Submariner has become a symbol of success, luxury, and adventure, attracting individuals who appreciate the brand’s heritage and exclusivity.
  • Investment Value: The Submariner’s popularity and enduring appeal have contributed to its strong investment value. Collectors and enthusiasts recognize its potential for appreciation over time.

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